Climb Kili Right Now

You’ll probably never find me trying to climb Everest, the highest peak in the world. But then again, I never thought I’d ever find myself hiking to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, either. For those of you who are geographically challenged, Kilimanjaro (or Kili, as it’s known to its buds) is located in Tanzania, in eastern Africa. At 19,340 feet above sea level, it’s the highest point in Africa, or roughly two-thirds as high as the 29,035-foot Everest.

However, altitude isn’t the only difference between Kili and the big E:
You can climb Kili without oxygen.
You can climb Kili without losing your nose to frostbite.
You can climb Kili without dying.

Yes, you. I did it in October 2006 at the age of 45. And you can too. Because I’m going to tell you how. And if the mountain calls you after you finish reading this, I encourage you to pick up the phone and return the call.

After all, no matter how hard you pedal the bike or pump the Stairmaster at the gym, one way to make all those workouts really count is to tackle the highest mountain you can, then take your prize and whisper, I did it! to yourself as your feet take the last step to the top of the summit; the same summit that seemed terrifyingly unattainable way up, up, up there in the distant clouds just a few days ago.

And now you stand with your toes pointed out from one of the highest peaks in the world. It’s cold, it’s quiet, and yeah, you hurt. But it’s just you and the mountain, with you on top. Meanwhile, a giant and perfectly formed glacier made famous by none other than Ernest Hemingway seems just inches away as you gaze down at it in the foreground, and beyond the glacier the entire magical continent of Africa spreads out before your eyes.

LESSON #1: Altitude counts
There are many trails you can take to the top of Kili. But the shortest route is not necessarily the smartest; if you use a trail that takes you up the mountain too fast, your body may have trouble acclimating to the altitude. My group opted for a 4-day hike up the Machame Route, which allowed us to move at a steady pace and enabled our bodies to adjust to the increases in altitude (and decreases in oxygen) every day—until we made the final push to the top.

As I approached the summit, I found myself shuffling along the trail in painstaking slow-mo, wondering how long it was going to take me to walk another 5 yards. I remember making deals with myself in which I’d promise to take 10 more steps without stopping; invariably, I’d have to stop after only five because I didn’t have the energy to go on without another break.

Truth: No matter how much time you give your body to acclimate, the altitude and lack of O2 will leave you feeling insanely sapped. So before you go, ask your doc about prescribing Diamox to help you cope with the symptoms of altitude sickness (headache, loss of appetite, nausea, and dizziness). I took Diamox and experienced none of these symptoms. My wife, Jody, took it and had a headache 1 day but was otherwise symptom-free.

LESSON #2: Training counts
Strong legs are important. But since most of us already have them, building a tight core and strong upper body—which tends to fatigue faster than your lower body—is equally key. It’s a lesson I learned, pre-trip, from Will Maloney, fitness manager at the Potrero Hill 24 Hour Fitness in San Francisco. Here, a few others:

• Give yourself at least 8 to 10 weeks to train.
• Wear a weighted vest during cardio to prepare you for carrying a pack.
• Train on cardio machines that require you to use your arms as well as your legs to help you prepare for using walking sticks all day while you hike.

Give your body a boost by taking glucosamine daily and eating lots of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids for your joints. Also, consider gaining some healthy pounds pretrip—there’s a good chance you’ll lose a few on the trail.

LESSON #3: Gear counts
Quality, moisture-wicking socks are a must. Light, comfy hiking boots are a must.  Seasonally appropriate cold-weather gear is a must. A comfy, well-fitted day pack is a must. Get one with a built-in hydration system that allows you to drink continuously through a tube; it will be easier for you to stay hydrated if you don’t have to unpack a bottle every time you want some water.

And walking sticks are recommended. Personally, I hate them, but most people use them. If you don’t have your own set, you can rent them from your outfitter, who’ll provide all other basic camping gear (tents, sleeping bags, food), as well as porters to tote it up the mountain ahead of you. (Porters carry everything except what you’ll need during the day while you hike: lunch, snacks, water, walking sticks, and warm clothing.)

LESSON #4: Your guide counts
A guide is required. You won’t be allowed to start up the mountain without one. Our group used a company called Wild Frontiers, and we were very happy with them, but you will find many other tour companies and outfitters on the Web. (Note: the bigger the price tag, the better the meals and the nicer the tents; the mountain, however, is the same for everyone.)
Keep in mind when guide shopping: It’s okay to question authority ... a little bit.

Most outfitters take their hikers up the final summit of Kilimanjaro in the middle of the night, with the goal of arriving at Uhuru (“freedom” in Swahili) Peak in time to see the sunrise. And it is a stunning view. But is it worth the hassle of a freezing all-night hike? Negotiating the steepest part of the trail in the frigid African night while queuing up behind a few hundred other hikers was admittedly not my favorite part of the trip.

After we returned to the Tanzanian town of Arusha, we met some renegade Kili guides who believe the best time of day to head for the summit is after the other hikers have gone to the top and come back. And that sounds good to me: Why not hike in the warm glow of sunlight and have the entire trail and summit to yourself?

If you want to talk to a couple of guides who buck the trend and advocate a morning summit to the top of Kili, contact Onesmo (pronounced “Ohh-nez-mo”) at East African Voyages at info@eastafricanvoyage.com.  Onesmo’s the guy I’m calling when Jody and I are ready to go back.  And we will go back. Will we see you there?